Assessment of the SPF and Anti-Irritating Properties of Sunscreen designed for Retinol users

Pritipadma Panda; Saimanisha Muppidi; Kartheswari Karuturi; Meghana Reddy Moranganti; Sandeep Mukkamala

doi:10.52756/ijerr.2023.v30.017

Pritipadma Panda Head of Research and Development Department, Esthetic Insights, Jeedimetla, Hyderabad, 500055, India https://orcid.org/0000-0002-1185-9545
Saimanisha Muppidi Senior Research Executive, Esthetic Insights, Jeedimetla, Hyderabad, 500055, India https://orcid.org/0009-0002-8320-975X
Kartheswari Karuturi Senior Research Executive, Esthetic Insights, Jeedimetla, Hyderabad, 500055, India https://orcid.org/0009-0002-9215-7672
Meghana Reddy Moranganti Research Coordinator, Esthetic Insights, Jeedimetla, Hyderabad, 500055, India https://orcid.org/0009-0008-2976-5679
Sandeep Mukkamala Chief Research and Development Officer, Esthetic Insights, Jeedimetla, Hyderabad, 500055, India https://orcid.org/0009-0006-6145-602X

DOI: https://doi.org/10.52756/ijerr.2023.v30.017

Keywords: Retinol, SPF, Sunscreen, Sensitive Skin, UVA, UVB

Abstract

Vitamin A and its derivatives, also known as retinoids, when applied topically for anti-ageing benefits, typically cause erythema and dryness on the skin, which are considered significant and common side effects. Furthermore, users of topical retinoids, like everyone else, need a sunscreen that protects the skin from harmful sun exposure while simultaneously countering the erythema and dryness of the skin. Retinoids also enhance the rate of skin cell turnover and expose newly produced skin to solar exposure, increasing the risk of sun damage and hyperpigmentation. Since the skin becomes sensitive with topical retinoids, a sunscreen must possess the further benefit of elevated skin resilience, which is much needed with conventional sun protection. ‘‘EI Pro Retinol Sunscreen’’ came up with a new innovative sunscreen with UV protectants and other active ingredients that have calming and soothing properties that minimize erythema and dryness. EI launched the “EI PRO Retinol series,” which includes the “EI PRO Retinol Sunscreen,” to protect the skin from the detrimental effects of ultraviolet rays as well as further irritation and itching caused by retinoid actions on the skin. In this study, researchers attempted to develop and design a sunscreen using a patented sunscreen agent (a combination of water, ethylhexyl methoxy-cinnamate, butyl methoxy-dibenzoyl-methane, benzophenone-3, phospholipids, and 1,3-butylene glycol) and Porphyridium cruentum (marine algae) for skin resilience, antioxidants like ascorbic acid, vitamin E, and soothing agents like carrot seed oil and sodium hyaluronate. Sunscreens are evaluated based on their sun protection factor (SPF), PA rating, and critical wavelength. Usually, sunscreens with an SPF above 50, a PA rating of ++++, and a critical wavelength over 370 nm would offer higher sun protection and block both UVA and UVB rays. The results showed that “EI PRO Retinol Sunscreen” has a critical wavelength of 376.67 and is considered a broad-spectrum SPF 50 PA++++ sunscreen. Thus, ‘‘EI PRO Retinol Sunscreen’’ is also proven to be safe on the skin without irritation, and it is proven to be non-irritant by a single, blinded patch test method.

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