Empirical study on design and development of hand-crafted footwear

Ganesh Suresh Jadhav; Urmi Salve; Rajender Kumar; Shruti Vashist; Vijay Kumar; Deepak Kumar; Harish Banga; Anuja Ambekar

doi:10.52756/ijerr.2023.v30.010

Ganesh Suresh Jadhav Department of Design, Dr. Vishwanath Karad MIT World Peace University, Pune- 411038, India https://orcid.org/0000-0003-3020-4672
Urmi Salve Department of Design, Indian Institute of Technology, Guwahati, Assam- 781039, India https://orcid.org/0000-0002-0454-1475
Rajender Kumar Department of Mechanical Engineering, FET, MRIIRS, Faridabad-121003, India https://orcid.org/0000-0002-3531-630X
Shruti Vashist School of Engineering, Manav Rachna University, Faridabad-121003, India https://orcid.org/0000-0001-5907-0386
Vijay Kumar Department of Applied Science, FET, MRIIRS, Faridabad-121003, India https://orcid.org/0000-0002-6905-5160
Deepak Kumar Department of Applied Science, FET, MRIIRS, Faridabad-121003, India https://orcid.org/0000-0001-9419-8895
Harish Banga Department of Fashion & Life Style Accessories Design, National Institute of Fashion Technology Mumbai- 410210, India https://orcid.org/0000-0003-1629-6590
Anuja Ambekar Department of Design, Dr. Vishwanath Karad MIT World Peace University, Pune- 411038, India https://orcid.org/0000-0002-0454-1475

DOI: https://doi.org/10.52756/ijerr.2023.v30.010

Keywords: Artisan, hand craft, hand sewn, Kolhapuri chappal, footwear

Abstract

With its enormous potential in terms of employment, growth, and exports, the footwear industry is an important player in the Indian context, and can contribute to the nation's economic development. It is worth noting here that leather footwear in Kolhapuri style has a distinguished history spanning hundreds of years. This craft style is a labor-intensive production process in which the primitive nature of the tools and equipment are used. In the present context, this craft style is about to go extinct because of artisans' declining interest. The present study reports an attempt to improve the manufacturing procedure and productivity without changing the fundamental nature of the craft (its actual essence). The study reports on the local craft cluster's efforts to rethink the craft style in terms of technological interventions, skill development, product diversification, commercial opportunities, etc. Further, the study reports the necessity of conducting social workshops on design innovations. The study advocates the revitalization of Kolhapur's identity and the need for acceleration of this dying craft.

References

Ahmed, R. (1996). Development Perspectives of Indian Foot wear Industry. Women’s Employment in Industry A case of Indian Footwear CLRI Chennai & Department of Human Geography, University of Amsterdam the Netherlands, pp. 71-74.

Anderson, W., Choffin, Z., Jeong, N., Callihan, M., Jeong, S., & Sazonov, E. (2022). Empirical Study on Human Movement Classification Using Insole Footwear Sensor System and Machine Learning. Sensors, 22, 2743. https://doi.org/10.3390/s22072743

Burute, P.Y. (2014). Sustainable livelihood of leather artisans in Kolhapur district. Thesis (Ph.D.). Department of Economics, Shivaji University Kolhapur, Maharashtra, India, pp. 39-43.

Chakrabarti, A. (2013). Engineering Design Synthesis: Understanding, Approaches and Tools, Springer Science and Business Media, Berlin.

Choffin, Z., Jeong, N., Callihan, M., Olmstead, S., Sazonov, E., Thakral, S., Getchell, C., & Lombardi, V. (2021). Ankle Angle Prediction Using a Footwear Pressure Sensor and a Machine Learning Technique. Sensors, 21, 3790. https://www.mdpi.com/1424-8220/21/11/3790

De Almeida, L. B., Vieira, E. R., Zaia, J. E., de Oliveira Santos, B. M., Lourenço, A. R. V., & Quemelo, P. R. V. (2017). Musculoskeletal disorders and stress among footwear industry workers. Work, 56(1), 67-73. https://doi.org/10.3233/WOR-162463

Downe, W. (1992). Content analysis: method, applications, and issues. Health Care for Women International, 13(3), 313-321. https://doi.org/10.1080/07399339209516006

Entner, D., Prante, T., Vosgien, T., Zăvoianu, A., Saminger-Platz, S., Schwarz, M. and Fink, K. (2019). Potential identification and industrial evaluation of an integrated design automation workflow. Journal of Engineering, Design and Technology, 17(6), 1085-1109. https://doi.org/10.1108/JEDT-06-2018-0096

Guo, L.J., & Xiong, S.P. (2017). Accuracy of Base of Support Using an Inertial Sensor Based Motion Capture System. Sensors, 17, 2091. https://doi.org/10.3390/s17092091

Jadhav, G.S., Arunachalam, M., Salve, U. R. (2018). Design proposal and postural evaluation for workstation of workers in Indian Kolhapuri footwear (traditional hand sewn) manufacturing industry. WORK: A Journal of Prevention, Assessment & Rehabilitation. 66(2020), 849–860. https://doi.org/10.3233/WOR-203230 IOS Press.

Jadhav, G. S., Arunachalam, M., & Salve, U. R. (2019). Ergonomics design and evaluation of the stitching workstation for the hand-crafted Kolhapuri footwear using a digital human modeling approach. Journal of Industrial and Production Engineering, 36(8), 563-575. https://doi.org/10.1080/21681015.2019.1702593

Jadhav, G. S., & Arunachalam, M. (2021). Musculoskeletal problems of hand-sewn crafted footwear manufacturing artisans in Kolhapur, India. International Archives of Occupational and Environmental Health, 95(2), 499-508. https://doi.org/10.1007/s00420-021-01734-7.

Jadhav, G.S., Arunachalam, M., Salve, U. R., Devadula, S., Shete, H. K., & Thorat, S. A. (2022). Design Intervention for Sole Cutting Operation in Hand-Sewn Kolhapuri Footwear Manufacturing in India. Journal of the Institution of Engineers (India): Series C, 103(4), 967-983. https://doi.org/10.1007/s40032-022-00844-6

Ghosh, A. (2012). Triggering innovation and creativity in traditional handicrafts sectors - An Indian perspective. Management Insight, 8(1), 67-71.

Ghouse, S. (2012). Indian handicraft industry: problems and strategies. International Journal of Management Research and Review, 7, 1183-1199.

Giri, P.A., Meshram, P.V., & Kasbe, A.M. (2012). Socio-demographic determinants and morbidity profile of people engaged in bag making an occupation in an urban slum of Mumbai, India. National Journal of Community Medicine, 3, 601-606.

Gupta, S., Rocky, G. and Ronak, T. (2007). Challenges faced by the leather industry in Kanpur. Project Report, pp. 15-45.

Haik, Y., & Shahin, T. (1997). Engineering Design Process. 2nd Eds. Cengage Learning. pp.102- 106.

Hani, U., & Das, A. (2017). Design Intervention in the Handloom Industry of Assam: In the Context of a Debate between Traditional and Contemporary Practice. Research into Design and Communities, 1(65), 999-1006. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-10-3518-0_85

Hazara, K., & Barman, A. (2017). Prospect of traditional craft in present economy: a study of the earthen doll of Krishnagar, West Bengal. International Journal of Management, 8(4), 75-81.

Jadhav, G., Jamadar, V., & Gunavant, P. (2014). Role of Kaizens to improve productivity: a case study. Applied Mechanics Material, 592–594(2014), 2689–2693. https://doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/AMM.592-594.2689

Jadhav, Ganesh, S., Arunachalam, M., & Salve, U.R. (2019). Ergonomics design and evaluation of the stitching workstation for the hand-crafted Kolhapuri footwear using a digital human modeling approach. Journal of Industrial and Production Engineering, 36(8), 563-575. https://doi.org/10.1080/21681015.2019.1702593

Kamble, E. (2002). Transition in Socio-Economic Status of artisans with specific reference to Charmakars. In: Informal Sector in India: Challenges and Consequences, LAP Lambert Academic Publishing, Germany. pp.17-32.

Kapur, H., & Mittar, S. (2014). Design intervention and craft revival. International Journal of Scientific and Research Publications, 4(10), 719-722.

Kaur, P. (2011). Revival of Punjab's Traditional Handicraft: Phulkari. Asian Journal of Management, 2(1), 28-38.

Kodrat, D.S, Melinda, T., & Krisprimandoyo, D.A. (2020). Developing innovative footwear designs: empirical evidence from Indonesia. Revista de Pielărie Încălţăminte, 20(2020), 413-424. https://doi.org/10.24264/lfj.20.4.7

Kumar, R., Sindhwani, R., Tewary, T., & Davim, J. P. (2022). Principles of entrepreneurship in the Industry 4. 0 era. CRC Press, pp. 39-52

Luo, Z., Chen, Y., Cen, K., Pan, H., Zhong, M., & He, J. (2019). Research on comprehensive environmental impact assessment of shale gas development. Journal of Engineering, Design and Technology, 18(1), 1-20. https://doi.org/10.1108/JEDT-11-2018-0205

Mohan, G.M., Prasad P., & Sudarmathi V. (2008). Simplified procedure to analyze work posture of foundry men through the rapid upper limb assessment. International Journal of Environment and Health, 2(2), 225-238. https://doi.org/10.1504/IJENVH.2008.020664

Mravlinčić, S.K., Akalović, J., & Sandra Bischof, S. (2019). Merging footwear design and functionality. AUTEX Research Journal, 2019, 1-10. https://doi.org/10.2478/aut-2019-0023© AUTEX

Salve, U., & Jadhav, G. (2018). Analysis of posture adopted by Female Kolhapuri chappal (footwear) manufacturing workers India. International Ergonomics Association. Cham: Springer. pp. 278–286. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-96065-4_31

Salve, U.R., Jadhav, G.S., & Shete, H.K. (2017). Design solution of shoe sole (base of the footwear) preparation in traditional hand sewn footwear manufacturing: a case study on Kolhapuri chappal. Applied Human Factors and Ergonomics. Cham: Springer. pp. 995–1003. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-60582-1_100

Szubert, Z., Wilczynska, U., & Sobala, W. (2001). Health risk among workers employed in rubber footwear plant. Medycyna Pracy, 52(6), 409-416.

Ramsey, C.A., Lamb, P., & Ribeiro, D.C. (2022). Factors Influencing Runner's Choices of Footwear. Front Sports Act Living, 4, 829514. https://doi.org/10.3389/fspor.2022.829514.

White, M. D., & Marsh, E. E. (2006). Content analysis: A flexible methodology. Library Trends, 55(1), 22-45. https://doi.org/10.1353/lib.2006.0053